Banh Canh- Vietnamese Noodle Soup

I am starting a new series in the blog, and considering the sign of the times, it might take me a little longer.  My research coincides with cooking dates with my mother in law.  As you can expect, the recipes will be rough, and I have to keep up and guess some measurements as these are the science of tradition and taste as opposed to exactness.

Our first recipe has many types and variations, so the version we cooked is her family's recipe.  I had to guess and write quickly because time was of the essence.  Not really, but it seemed like we were in a rush.  However, the aromas made time stand still.

Soup and Dumplings

2 pounds pork bones (cleaned)

2 T ginger, crushed

2 pounds shrimp

2 1/2 cup onion, small dice

1 egg

salt, pepper, fish sauce

1 1/2 cups oil

2 t cayenne

2 T shrimp paste

cilantro, chopped

green onions, chopped

yellow onions, julienned

Noodles

1/2 pound rice flour

1/2 tapioca starch

2 T glutinous rice flour

warm water

Make pork stock by adding about one gallon of cold water, pork bones, and ginger and simmer for at least 2 hours.  While that is cooking, in a food processor, puree one pound shrimp, 1/2 cup onion, one egg, salt, pepper, fish sauce to taste.  This should make a beautiful shrimp paste.  Remove and place in a bowl and keep it cold.  Also, this is when you can make the noodles, see below.  In a separate pot, heat the oil, and when it is almost smoking, fry two cups onion until light brown then add the cayenne.  This should infuse the oil to a nice red hue.

 

How to make noodles-  In a mixing bowl, add half the dry ingredients.  Slowly add warm water and mix until it forms a firm ball.  Knead the dough for a few minutes until it is a very smooth ball.  Let it rest.  Repeat with the rest of the dry ingredients.  You should have two perfectly smooth spheres.

Cut a ball in half and put a small amount of flour on a cutting board.  Roll out the ball to about a quarter inch thickness and slice into noodles.  Repeat until all the dough is cut into noodles.  Do not roll it too thin as the noodles will break.  This is a thick noodle soup.

Add about two or three cups of pork stock to the onion chili oil (pending your size of pot).  There should be enough liquid to poach the dumplings.  When the stock comes up to a boil, begin adding the dumplings.  Using two spoons, dip them in water and scoop enough filling to form a quenelle (or a football) and spoon it into the stock.  Use all the filling.  While the dumplings cook, mix the shrimp paste with a little water turning it into a slurry.  Strain the slurry and add the liquid to the stock.  Toss the remnants in the strainer.  Add the rest of the stock to the pot with the dumplings and let it simmer.  Return it back to a boil and begin adding the noodles.  Once the noodles are cooked, add the rest of the shrimp.  When the shrimp cook, shut it off and eat!  Garnish the soup with the cilantro, green onion, and onion mixture.  If you want more spice, add chili paste or fresh chilis.

Garlic Beef with Ssamjang, Stir Fry Vegetables and Noodles

Welcome back!!  Well, we were forced indoors as the entire nation went into COVID-19 lockdown.  What better time to restart the blog.  I hope you missed it because I did.  Work, life, work, life keep getting in the way, but working on new dishes has kept me moving.

I wanted to start with something simple and outside.  The perfect weather makes the grill scream at me, and a quick marinade makes for a nice dinner.

With a quick move away from the usual Vietnamese fare, I ventured into a Korean type of beef.  Using some finger sized cuts of sirloin, I made an easy marinade and accompanied it with some stir fried vegetables and noodles.

Marinade
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup onion, minced
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 T mirin
2 T garlic, minced
1/2 T sesame oil
1 T black pepper
1 T korean chili powder (or red chili flakes)

Garnish- mint, sesame seeds, or anything you think might go well with grilled beef!  I made a Korean dipping sauce called ssamjang.  

Ssamjang
1/2 cup doenjang (Korean soybean paste)
3 T gochujang (Korean chili paste)
3 T sesame oil
1 T honey
1 T sesame seeds
1/4 cup onion, minced
1 t red chili flakes

Mix all ingredients very well

This amount is good for about a pound of beef.

Mix everything and whisk until sugar dissolves.  Pour over the beef and marinate for at least 2 hours up to about 8 hours.  Using a grill or a cast iron pan, cook the beef until it has a nice dark glaze on the outside.  Garnish with torn mint leaves.  This would go well with rice, but I had some vegetables to cook, so that recipe follows.

Stir Fried Vegetables and Noodles

Stir fry sauce- 

2.5 T brown sugar

1.5 T fish sauce

1 T soy sauce

Mix until sugar dissolves, set aside.

For one pound of various vegetables- I used red onions, mushrooms, squash, cabbage, broccoli, snow peas, asparagus, red bell pepper, but it is your choice!

One pound of cooked noodles, and I used spaghetti because that is what I had at the time.  This is a good way to move a small amount of various leftovers.

3-4 T vegetable or canola oil

2 T grated ginger

1 t red chili flakes

Heat wok or pan, add oil and stir fry vegetables until cooked through, add stir fry sauce, cook for another minute or two until glaze forms, add ginger and chili, and cook for another minute or so.  Add noodles, and working quickly, stir fry until hot.  If it seems a little dry, add a splash of water.   Remove from heat and splash with a few dashes of rice wine vinegar and a couple of twists of pepper.

Lately, my music of choice has been all over the place, so I needed something relaxing for the outdoor cooking session.  I went with Big Star.  If you are unfamiliar, check out the documentary.  The pioneering band of the early '70s laid a wonderful foundation for the '80s power pop phenom bands such as R.E.M., the Replacements, Afghan Whigs, and many, many others.

My recommendations as a quick introduction would be "The Ballad of El Good", "Thirteen", and "September Gurls".  A couple of other favorites are "Back of a Car" and "Feel".  The catalog is very small, and internal along with label issues led to a quick demise.  Check it out, as they deserve a look, and the documentary is very interesting.