Banh Canh- Vietnamese Noodle Soup

I am starting a new series in the blog, and considering the sign of the times, it might take me a little longer.  My research coincides with cooking dates with my mother in law.  As you can expect, the recipes will be rough, and I have to keep up and guess some measurements as these are the science of tradition and taste as opposed to exactness.

Our first recipe has many types and variations, so the version we cooked is her family's recipe.  I had to guess and write quickly because time was of the essence.  Not really, but it seemed like we were in a rush.  However, the aromas made time stand still.

Soup and Dumplings

2 pounds pork bones (cleaned)

2 T ginger, crushed

2 pounds shrimp

2 1/2 cup onion, small dice

1 egg

salt, pepper, fish sauce

1 1/2 cups oil

2 t cayenne

2 T shrimp paste

cilantro, chopped

green onions, chopped

yellow onions, julienned

Noodles

1/2 pound rice flour

1/2 tapioca starch

2 T glutinous rice flour

warm water

Make pork stock by adding about one gallon of cold water, pork bones, and ginger and simmer for at least 2 hours.  While that is cooking, in a food processor, puree one pound shrimp, 1/2 cup onion, one egg, salt, pepper, fish sauce to taste.  This should make a beautiful shrimp paste.  Remove and place in a bowl and keep it cold.  Also, this is when you can make the noodles, see below.  In a separate pot, heat the oil, and when it is almost smoking, fry two cups onion until light brown then add the cayenne.  This should infuse the oil to a nice red hue.

 

How to make noodles-  In a mixing bowl, add half the dry ingredients.  Slowly add warm water and mix until it forms a firm ball.  Knead the dough for a few minutes until it is a very smooth ball.  Let it rest.  Repeat with the rest of the dry ingredients.  You should have two perfectly smooth spheres.

Cut a ball in half and put a small amount of flour on a cutting board.  Roll out the ball to about a quarter inch thickness and slice into noodles.  Repeat until all the dough is cut into noodles.  Do not roll it too thin as the noodles will break.  This is a thick noodle soup.

Add about two or three cups of pork stock to the onion chili oil (pending your size of pot).  There should be enough liquid to poach the dumplings.  When the stock comes up to a boil, begin adding the dumplings.  Using two spoons, dip them in water and scoop enough filling to form a quenelle (or a football) and spoon it into the stock.  Use all the filling.  While the dumplings cook, mix the shrimp paste with a little water turning it into a slurry.  Strain the slurry and add the liquid to the stock.  Toss the remnants in the strainer.  Add the rest of the stock to the pot with the dumplings and let it simmer.  Return it back to a boil and begin adding the noodles.  Once the noodles are cooked, add the rest of the shrimp.  When the shrimp cook, shut it off and eat!  Garnish the soup with the cilantro, green onion, and onion mixture.  If you want more spice, add chili paste or fresh chilis.

Nuoc Mam Stir Fry Vegetables

Here is a side item that can be added to any meal or a light entree.  It is packed with flavor, and you can use any vegetable in the house.  I enjoy mushrooms for earthiness and a nice green leafy vegetable such as bok choy.  

Nuoc Mam Stir Fry Vegetables

Assorted Vegetables cut in similar size pieces

2 tbsp sesame oil

1 tbsp canola oil

Nuoc Mam to taste

Using high heat and saute pan or wok, sweat garlic, onions, and chili in oil.  When it becomes nice and fragrant, add carrots and celery.  Cook about 2-3 minutes and move to side to get a nice open space (if possible), then add mushrooms.  Cook until they become nice and brown.  Toss everything together and add bok choy.  Gently wilt, then deglaze with nuoc mam.  Cook another minute or so and ENJOY!!! 

Smoked Veal Salad

Fireworks, parades, celebrations?  Yeah, that's how New Year's Day is spent in America but is this commonplace elsewhere?

In many parts of Asia, the celebration of the New Year  begins a month or so after January 1st.  The first day (until the third day) of the first month of the Lunar Calendar (late January or early February), the Vietnamese people celebrate the holiday known as Tet Nguyen Dan (meaning Feast of the First Morning) or simply Tet.  Traditionally, parades, fireworks, games and gifts of money are part of the celebration otherwise known as- an Tet- meaning to eat Tet!  As with most cultures, food begins to take center stage during holiday settings.  During Tet, duck is considered to be unlucky and shrimp walk backwards, thus making you move backwards (as opposed to progressing through life); other seasonal dishes become a part of the Feast. Visit your local Vietnamese community to enjoy the celebration of Tet or find the nearest Asian Market and expand your pantry.

Dried candied fruits, pickled vegetables and sticky rice filled with meat or mung bean are among the various dishes offered.  However, our focus will be on a seldom seen dish involving smoked veal and wonderful fresh herbs.  This specialty becomes prominent during Tet, however, we enjoy it any time of year.

In Vietnam, a whole calf is roasted in an open flame pit, but http://www.tanbinhbethui.com/ supplies the roasted veal to many Asian markets throughout the US.  The method is slightly different but the results are wonderful.  The meat is already sliced and beautifully packaged, which makes this a wonderful year-round treat.

Be Thui-Smoked Veal Salad

1lb. Vietnamese Style Roasted/Smoked Veal Sliced-*

2 each red or yellow onion

¼ cup toasted sesame seeds

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

1 bunch perilla-*

1 bunch Vietnamese coriander-*

roasted peanuts

roasted rice powder-*

Ginger Nuoc Mam

½ cup fish sauce-*

¼ cup water

2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 

¼ cup palm sugar (or to taste)-*

1 or 2 limes juiced

3 cloves garlic minced

2 Thai chilis thinly sliced-*

2 tbsp ginger minced

*- ingredients can be found at your local Asian Market

Nuoc mam, a staple of Vietnamese cuisine, adds sweet, salty, spicy and acidic flavors to any dish, and this version includes freshly chopped ginger.  Thai palm sugar is my choice but any type of sugar will work, and we use unseasoned rice wine vinegar.  Measurements are provided but have fun with this and adjust according to your tastes.  You might want less sugar or more spice, so play with it and change it according to your palate.

Break up the sugar, and add it to the liquids while bringing to a slow simmer.  This will allow the sugar to melt nicely and blend the flavors together.  While working the sauce, finely chop the garlic, ginger and thinly slice the chilis.  After a few minutes, the sugar should melt properly, and the chilis, ginger and garlic are added. Turn off the heat and let is rest, then thinly slice the red onion and toss it in rice wine vinegar. 

As the onions are marinating, tear the herbs from the thick stems and set aside.  Now we are ready to plate the salad.  Layer the onions on the bottom with the sliced veal on top, and sprinkle a teaspoon or so of roasted rice powder along with the sesame seeds over the top of the salad.  Garnish heavily with the torn herbs, and serve the nuoc mam on the side.  The smokiness of the veal pairs beautifully with the freshness of the ingredients.