Salt and Pepper Squid

Eight arms, two tentacles, an ink sac and highly edible?  Sounds strange, but throughout the world squid are among the more popular seafoods.  From Japan to Italy to America, they adorn restaurant menus and street food stands everywhere.  Americans have adopted the Italian term calamari in reference to the cephalopod.  

In Vietnam, squid or muc are highly regarded and among the more popular street foods.  Sometimes stuffed with ground pork and bean thread vermicelli, we will explore one of my favorite versions.  Using five spice and some chili, we will do salt and pepper squid which can be an appetizer or entree served with steamed rice.

Muc Rang Muoi- Salt and Pepper Squid

2 lbs. squid bodies sliced across and tentacles, separate
Vegetable Oil

2 egg whites whipped until blended well

2 cups potato starch (or corn starch or rice flour)

1 cup green onion sliced

1 thai chili thinly sliced

1 medium onion thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves minced

salt and pepper blend- 1 tbsp salt, 1 tsp white pepper, 1 tsp sugar, ½ tsp five spice, 1 tsp garlic powder, 1 tsp ground ginger

nuoc mam

Toss the squid in the egg whites, then drain and mix with starch.  Heat oil in a deep fryer or wok, and in small batches fry squid until golden brown and remove to a plate lined with a paper towel.  Continue until all the squid is cooked.  Carefully, pour off all the oil into a heatproof container until you have about 3 tbsp remaining.  Place wok back on burner and add onion, chili and garlic.  Stir fry until very fragrant, and add cooked squid back to wok, turn off heat.  Toss gently, add salt and pepper blend and toss again.  Serve with nuoc mam.

The Echo and the Bunnymen Spotify radio station fueled this post!  "Lips Like Sugar" and "The Killing Moon" set the bar for this 80s band who acquired their name from the drum machine originally used in the studio- its name was Echo!  Not only did the station play many Echo contemporaries, but it also added some newer bands and not so new bands.  Interpol, Blur, The Strokes, and Oasis were on the list.  I am just getting into Spotify so any tips would be appreciated, but so far I enjoy the selections.  

P&J Oyster Tour

Taking a break from the normal routine, I was invited on a tour of the oyster beds in Empire, Louisiana.  P&J Oyster House is among the oldest processors in America, and they have close ties to both coastal restoration and proper seafood management.  After a scenic hour plus drive down south to Empire, we boarded an oyster boat owned by the Jurisich family and proceeded to tour the beds.  

For the oysters to grow, cement or limestone is dropped into the water which allows the oysters to attach and mature.  The boats then dredge the state owned area (oyster farmers rent the beds), and pull up their haul while tossing back immature oysters.  During colder months, the oysters develop a salty flavor due to high salinity in the water from less rainfall and lower river water mixing into the Gulf of Mexico.  The oysters swell and become plump as they hold onto fat before spawning.  The old saying is that you should only eat oysters in months with the letter "r".  This has a lot to do with the fat content and water salinity.  Both give the oyster a fresher taste and less flavor.     

Among our local seafood, I feel oysters are our most prized asset.  Gulf shrimp are amazing, but so are other shrimp from around the world, and the same goes for crabmeat.  However, our oysters are really special.  To join this crew for a morning tour was a real treat and a wonderful lesson in the day to day activity of an oyster boat. 

We shucked some freshly caught oysters and after a few hours at sea, we rode back to the camp and relaxed over a home cooked meal of fried oysters, marinated oysters, crawfish ettouffee, bread pudding and a salad.

Thanks to the Jurisich family and P&J Oyster House for bringing us on such an amazing trip.   

Vietnamese Style Stir Fried Clams

Freshly steamed clams are among nature's great treasures!!  These amazing bivalves create a succulent broth with very little help.  The Vietnamese use clams and lemongrass to create wonderful street food, and this style of cooking has been used with mussels and snails also. Some crushed peanuts and herbs adds to a delightful snack!  This recipe has two steps.  A quick stir fry with the first round of seasoning, and then we will steam them in a sauce.  The clam broth combined with our soy based sauce will leave us no choice but to sop it up with some great bread.

Con Nghieu Hap- Vietnamese Steamed Clams

5 lbs. Littleneck Clams (about 50 each)

2 Thai Chilis minced

2 cloves garlic minced

2 tbsp ginger minced
2 tbsp canola oil

Sauce

3 tbsp thick soy sauce

2 tbsp rice wine

½ tsp sugar

1 tsp salt

Vietnamese coriander

cilantro

First, make sure the clams are clean.  Discard any open or broken clams.  Place them in cold water in the refrigerator and leave for about 20-30 minutes.  Then remove from the cold water allowing the dirt to remain on the bottom of the bowl.  Place them in a new bowl and cover with a damp towel.

While the clams soak, combine the ingredients for the stir fry sauce.  

In a hot wok or larger pan, add canola oil and stir fry garlic, ginger, and chilis.  When they become very fragrant, add the clams and toss to coat.  Pour in the sauce and gently shake clams to coat.  Cover and steam for about 10 minutes, or until all the clams have opened.  

Finished with a generous helping of the chopped herbs and some crusty bread!! 

In South Louisiana summer is upon us, and we tend to look for refreshing beverages.  Today's drink is a nice crisp gewurztraminer from Pacific Rim.  A grape that originates from Alsace,  gewurztraminer has a low acidity, and when trying to think of comparable flavors just imagine ginger and peach.  Pacific Rim is a winery from the Columbia Valley in Washington where this grape is now heavily marketed.  A rather sweet and summery wine, it paired up nicely with the clams.

Caramel Shark

Nothing was jumping out at the market.  I couldn't decide on anything that would make a good blog entry.  I didn't want a whole 20 pound grouper or some of the not so unusual cleaned fish.  Then my eyes wandered to the two lonely fish laying in a box of ice.  Hmm, shark?  Why not!!  I turned to the fish monger and said, "I'll take a shark."  His eyes widened, and he replied, "you want a shark?  OK!"  So shark in hand, I left to create something fun and exciting!

Traditionally this might be cooked with catfish, but I found a great little shark at the market.  Commonly known as dogfish or mud shark, this is a small fish that grows to about four feet.  The thick skin can easily be removed with a sharp knife resulting in two beautiful filets.  While not very common in the United States, this type of shark is frequently consumed in Europe including France and England.  I found the meat to be very fresh and mild.  The texture was dense and similar to cobia.  

Vietnamese caramel sauce is a staple of many kitchens.  It is used in clay pot cooking and most cooks will stew down catfish or another hearty fish for about an hour to create the perfect sweetness and color.  While it is cooked in the same manner as a basic caramel, this is a sauce and not nearly as thick or sweet.  The fish sauce adds saltiness, and the chili adds spice.  The balance of salt, spice, and sweet is the end result.

Ca Kho To-Caramel Fish (Shark)

1 ½ pounds shark meat cubed
2 tbsp sesame oil

3 cloves garlic minced

3 shallots minced

pinch black pepper
green onions
cilantro

Nuoc Mau-Vietnamese Caramel

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

1 chili minced

1 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp red chili flakes

Clean the shark just as you would a basic fish filet.  You should have two nice large pieces of fish.  Cut them into nice 1/2 inch cubes.  

In a nonreactive pot, bring water and sugar up to a boil and turn down heat to medium high.  Stir frequently to rinse the sugar off the sides of the pot.  The sauce will begin to turn brown.  When it reaches a nice dark brown, add the fish sauce and chili.  This will cause it to seize up, but keep the flame low and stir and it will loosen up again.  Then remove the sauce from the burner.   

In a wok, heat the oil and stir fry the garlic and shallots.  Add the shark meat and brown nicely on all sides, sprinkle with black pepper.  Add enough caramel sauce to coat the fish and toss on medium heat. Garnish with chopped green onions and cilantro

Since I was handling shark, something with a punch was needed to carry the mood.  I was reading Slicing Up Eyeballs, which is a super cool 80s music website, and I saw the Cult was coming to New Orleans.  Well, it was about 20 plus years ago that I saw them live, so I thought they would really enhance the cooking experience.  From the opening guitar licks of "Rain", Billy Duffy had me hooked.  What great memories!  The afternoon was spent cleaning shark and rocking to "Edie", "Sweet Soul Sister", "Nirvana", and many, many more including the 80s anthem "She Sells Sanctuary!" 

Lemongrass Mackerel

I love roasting whole fish.  Super fresh fish on the bone with a simple sauce brings out amazing aromas and satiating goodness!!  

Whole fish with lemongrass and Thai chilies requires very little work but brings out wonderful flavors.   Mackerel is my personal favorite, and for this recipe, I was able to find some beautiful Indian mackerel which are usually about 10 inches long, but these were about 7 inches.  Very popular in Southeast Asian cuisine, the Indian mackerel has a rich flavor resulting from their diet of shrimp and fish larvae.  

Ca Uop Xa- Lemongrass Fish

2 Whole Fish (about 1-1 ½ pound fish)
2 tbsp canola oil
1/4 cup water

Marinade
2 pieces lemongrass minced-*

3 cloves garlic minced

2 Thai chili peppers minced-*

¼ tsp black pepper

2 tbsp fish sauce-*

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp turmeric-*

cilantro

Vietnamese coriander

Make sure the fish are cleaned and gutted with the fins cut off and put three slits in each side.  Mix the marinade ingredients and rub on fish.  Let them sit in the refrigerator for about 3-4 hours.   

In a hot skillet, add the canola oil and gently lay the fish in and let the skin crisp and pull away from the pan.  Gently place a spatula under the fish and release while lightly shaking the skillet.  Carefully flip the fish and cook through on the other side.  When fully cooked, remove fish to a plate and pour water into the pan to deglaze the seasonings.  Scrape up all the bits and reduce to a nice thickened consistency and pour over the fish.  A nice Vietnamese cabbage salad is refreshing as a side dish.

Today's tunes were a mix of 80's New Wave artists on Pandora!  Easy listening to the sounds of yesteryear.  Memories of my youth were carried through the airwaves including Depeche Mode, Simple Minds, the Cure, the Psychedelic Furs and many others.  Funny how tastes change, but we seem to go back to our old habits.  I went through a major metal phase and still love punk rock, but I find my music to just chill out and enjoy is that English 80's sound.  

Vietnamese Crudo, Yuzu Nuoc Mam, Pomelo, Saigon Herbs

Being that I am Italian, I will take the liberty of using the term crudo when describing this dish.  Considering that I will dress the fish, it is closer to a traditional crudo than the Japanese sashimi.  However, the use of yuzu does bring in a Japanese element, but who is following the rules today anyhow?  I try to stick to the more traditional preparations, but today my restaurant side got the best of me, and I put together something of a hybrid.  

Originally grown in China, the yuzu has become very popular in Japanese cooking.  Ironically, the name in Chinese refers to the pomelo, which we will discuss in a moment.  Tart and aromatic are two characteristics of the fruit.  Since citrus juice is added to nuoc mam, I have used yuzu juice and heightened the tartness in the crudo. 

For texture and a slight sweetness, pomelo segments will be added.  The pomelo is a large citrus in the shape of a pear but with the skin of a grapefruit.  However, when you cut it open, the pith is very thick with a dense inner flesh.  

Striped Bass Crudo with Yuzu Nuoc Mam, Pomelo and Saigon Fresh Herbs

2 filetsStriped Bass sliced 

1 pomelo segmented

1 tbsp yuzu nuoc mam (recipe below)

1 tsp lemongrass minced white only

2 shallots minced

1 tsp cilantro chopped

1 tsp Vietnamese coriander chopped-*

1 tsp perilla chopped-*

Yuzu Nuoc Mam

½cup fish sauce-*¼cup water

2tbsp rice wine vinegar 

¼ cup palm sugar (or to taste)-*

1or 2 limes juiced

3cloves garlic minced

2Thai chilis thinly sliced-*

1 tbsp yuzu juice-*

*- ingredients can be found at your local Asian Market

Make sure the fish is very cold as this will make it easier to slice.  Cut open the pomelo, and clean all the pith and skin away from the flesh.  Using a very sharp knife, cut the segments avoiding all seeds and flesh.  You should have nice pieces of fruit that are very clean, which you can now slice into thin pieces.  The white pith is very bitter, and we do not want that mucking up our fish.  

Over low heat, warm up the first four ingredients for nuoc mam, and when the sugar is dissolved, add the rest and taste for balance.  It should be salty, sweet, sour, and spicy.  You can adjust it accordingly.

Gently cut the fish into nice uniform slices moving the knife across the grain of the meat.  Carefully place the fish slices on a plate and add the pomelo segments.  Dress the plate with herbs, lemongrass, shallots, and nuoc mam.  You may want to add more or less of each depending on your taste.  Personally, I enjoy the freshness of a lot of herbs, so I tend to overdo them, but to each his own.  Just make it however you feel it tastes best.  

Crudo and The Cure!  Yeah, that is kind of what happened.  I fell into a bizarre trance of Simon Gallup's bass and fish!  I agree that it makes no sense, but what can you do?  Plus, "Love Song" reminds me of my wife which puts a big smile on my face.  Kiss Me, Kiss Me, Kiss Me was the Cure album that changed my outlook towards music, but I was lost in Disintegration and enjoyed it!

So let's make a drink!! I found a few trusty ingredients and came up with a little bourbon flavored beverage.   Saigon Mint Julep- 2 oz. bourbon, 1oz. simple syrup, 2 oz. pineapple juice, splash of yuzu juice, perilla, lemongrass- muddle perilla and lemongrass, add ice, bourbon, simple syrup, yuzu, and pineapple juice.  Mix well, and enjoy!  Now I need to invite Robert Smith over to have a drink, and I can wonder if his hair is always that big!  

Cha Ca Thang Long- Hanoi Fish with Turmeric and Dill

Large masses of water provide luxurious ingredients.  Centuries of fishing has provided us with meals of wonderful seafood and glorious sauces.  Dover Sole Meuniere, Tuna Nicoise, Caribbean Jerk Fish, Roasted Whole Pompano, Japanese...well you get the idea.  We could go on forever with amazing recipes.  In South Louisiana, Speckled Trout Almandine and Blackened Redfish grace numerous restaurant menus throughout the area; however, we will travel to the capital of Vietnam where a certain dish has become a staple after a restaurant, Cha Ca La Vong, created it.  


Dill is a regional herb used in Northern Vietnam and predominantly in dishes with fish (including soup).  We are going to use striped bass, but any nice firm white fish can be used.  Also, think of dill as a extra vegetable instead of an herb--use the entire piece and cut the green onions into long batons.  The pineapple fish sauce calls for a grey, thicker version than nuoc mam.  


Today's cooking was aided by the Canadian trio Rush!  Congratulations on their recent and long overdue induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.  Hanoi fish and mid-80s Rush make for a wonderful afternoon.  Power Windows, Hold Your Fire, and Presto close out the decade, and while vastly underrated by many fans, I thoroughly enjoy the change in style.  Marathon, Manhattan Project, Force Ten, and Chain Lightning are all stellar pieces.  Enjoy today's fish, and a wonderful cold beverage recipe is found at the end!

Cha Ca Thang Long- Hanoi Style Fish with Pinepple Fish Sauce

2 lbs. Fish- Cod, Halibut, White Fish

1 lb. dry vermicelli-*

1 cup canola oil

1/4 cup fish sauce-*

1 tsp turmeric-*

1 bunch dill

1 bunch green onions

bean sprouts-*

roasted peanuts

Pineapple Fish Sauce

¼ cup fermented fish sauce (mam nem)-*

1 cup pineapple

2 cloves garlic

1 Thai chili-*

2 tbsp lime juice

1 tbsp sugar

*- can be found at your local Asian Market

Combine the sauce ingredients in a blender and emulsify until smooth.  The result will look like an odd gray paste and stink, but trust me, it is delicious.  Cut the fish into nice chunks, about the size of a sugar packet.  Mix the turmeric, fish sauce and oil together and toss with the fish.   In a hot non-stick skillet, add the fish and all the marinade.  When a nice brown coat forms, flip over each piece and cook through.  This should only take a few minutes.  Right before the fish is done, add all the dill and green onions and toss until lightly wilted.

Fill a bowl with the vermicelli and add the fish, peanuts and sprouts.  Make sure to pour the pan sauce onto the bowl and serve with the fish sauce on the side adding some to the bowl as you go.

Beverage- The Presto (in honor of the Rush album)- 2 oz. Spiced Rum, 1/4 cup Diced Fresh Pineapple, 4 oz. Coconut Water (with pulp).  Muddle pineapple, add rum and coconut water, stir to mix, enjoy!