Combination Fried Rice

"Can I have an order of shrimp fried rice?"  Wow, real creative ordering!  Sit in any Asian restaurant across America and those words will be uttered.  Combinations of this dish exist all over the world from curry fried rice to Thai hot dog fried rice (yes, it exists) to Hawaiian fried rice (of course it includes spam). Arguably the most popular dish in Asian-American cuisine is fried rice, and sometimes it seems as though fried rice is more American than Asian, but have you ever tried to make it at home?

Sometimes nothing beats a nice warm bowl of fried rice, and the Vietnamese add Chinese sausage and fish sauce to theirs which gives it a wonderful sweet and salty flavor. 

Com Chien-Combination Fried Rice 

8 oz. Gulf shrimp peeled and deveined

8 oz. salt fish diced (see notes)

1 cup Chinese sausage sliced

2 tbsp sesame oil

1 carrot diced

1 medium onion diced

1 tbsp minced garlic

4 cups cooked Jasmine rice

½ tsp salt

½ tsp sugar

¼ tsp black pepper

3 eggs scrambled

2 tsp soy sauce

2 tsp fish sauce

1 cup chopped green onions

1 cup chopped cilantro

Notes- Salt fish can be purchased at an Asian market and must be rehydrated before using.  However, you can make your own solution by combining 1 quart of water with 1/4 cup of sugar and 1/4 cup of salt.  Mix until dissolved, and pour the solution over clean fish filets and hold in a refrigerator for 4-5 hours or overnight if desired (depending on the salinity level you wish to incorporate).

Any number of vegetables can be added to fried rice including peas, celery, leafy greens such as chard or spinach, small cut green beans, etc.

In a hot wok or big skillet, add sesame oil and in small batches sear the shrimp.  When they are not quite cooked through, remove them to a plate and reserve for later.  Do the same thing to the fish.  Add the sausage and let the juices begin to release, then remove and hold.  In the same wok, add onions, carrots, and garlic and sweat while scraping any bits of the bottom of the pan.  

Once the vegetables are soft, add the eggs and lightly scramble, when they are still runny on top begin to fold in the rice and vigorously stir fry everything.  Add seasoning and both sauces and fold thoroughly.  Add shrimp, fish, and sausage and continue to stir fry until proteins are cooked and check for flavor.  If you need to add more sauce or pepper, feel free.  Fold in green onions and cilantro.

The rice should be free of clumps and thoroughly mixed with all ingredients.  Enjoy with a nice cold beer!!  

Musically, I was torn, so I chose Fugazi.  I put on Repeater which is arguably the greatest album of all time, and I feel if I were stranded on an island, this album could get me through.  From the opening song "Turnover", this album is filled with complex musical structures and lyrics.  It is hard to believe that it is 23 years old, and for all of you out there listening to bands such as the Foo Fighters and Pearl Jam, check this out.  Fugazi straight up kicks ass!  Although, they might not use this recipe since they are vegan.  At least the music is great!

Vietnamese Crudo, Yuzu Nuoc Mam, Pomelo, Saigon Herbs

Being that I am Italian, I will take the liberty of using the term crudo when describing this dish.  Considering that I will dress the fish, it is closer to a traditional crudo than the Japanese sashimi.  However, the use of yuzu does bring in a Japanese element, but who is following the rules today anyhow?  I try to stick to the more traditional preparations, but today my restaurant side got the best of me, and I put together something of a hybrid.  

Originally grown in China, the yuzu has become very popular in Japanese cooking.  Ironically, the name in Chinese refers to the pomelo, which we will discuss in a moment.  Tart and aromatic are two characteristics of the fruit.  Since citrus juice is added to nuoc mam, I have used yuzu juice and heightened the tartness in the crudo. 

For texture and a slight sweetness, pomelo segments will be added.  The pomelo is a large citrus in the shape of a pear but with the skin of a grapefruit.  However, when you cut it open, the pith is very thick with a dense inner flesh.  

Striped Bass Crudo with Yuzu Nuoc Mam, Pomelo and Saigon Fresh Herbs

2 filetsStriped Bass sliced 

1 pomelo segmented

1 tbsp yuzu nuoc mam (recipe below)

1 tsp lemongrass minced white only

2 shallots minced

1 tsp cilantro chopped

1 tsp Vietnamese coriander chopped-*

1 tsp perilla chopped-*

Yuzu Nuoc Mam

½cup fish sauce-*¼cup water

2tbsp rice wine vinegar 

¼ cup palm sugar (or to taste)-*

1or 2 limes juiced

3cloves garlic minced

2Thai chilis thinly sliced-*

1 tbsp yuzu juice-*

*- ingredients can be found at your local Asian Market

Make sure the fish is very cold as this will make it easier to slice.  Cut open the pomelo, and clean all the pith and skin away from the flesh.  Using a very sharp knife, cut the segments avoiding all seeds and flesh.  You should have nice pieces of fruit that are very clean, which you can now slice into thin pieces.  The white pith is very bitter, and we do not want that mucking up our fish.  

Over low heat, warm up the first four ingredients for nuoc mam, and when the sugar is dissolved, add the rest and taste for balance.  It should be salty, sweet, sour, and spicy.  You can adjust it accordingly.

Gently cut the fish into nice uniform slices moving the knife across the grain of the meat.  Carefully place the fish slices on a plate and add the pomelo segments.  Dress the plate with herbs, lemongrass, shallots, and nuoc mam.  You may want to add more or less of each depending on your taste.  Personally, I enjoy the freshness of a lot of herbs, so I tend to overdo them, but to each his own.  Just make it however you feel it tastes best.  

Crudo and The Cure!  Yeah, that is kind of what happened.  I fell into a bizarre trance of Simon Gallup's bass and fish!  I agree that it makes no sense, but what can you do?  Plus, "Love Song" reminds me of my wife which puts a big smile on my face.  Kiss Me, Kiss Me, Kiss Me was the Cure album that changed my outlook towards music, but I was lost in Disintegration and enjoyed it!

So let's make a drink!! I found a few trusty ingredients and came up with a little bourbon flavored beverage.   Saigon Mint Julep- 2 oz. bourbon, 1oz. simple syrup, 2 oz. pineapple juice, splash of yuzu juice, perilla, lemongrass- muddle perilla and lemongrass, add ice, bourbon, simple syrup, yuzu, and pineapple juice.  Mix well, and enjoy!  Now I need to invite Robert Smith over to have a drink, and I can wonder if his hair is always that big!  

Five Spice Cornish Hen with Tamarind Sauce

Nothing beats chicken!  Hot, cold, roasted, fried, a juicy chicken thigh is among the most delicious items available.  Personally, I like it cold and fried, but everyone has a preference.   

For centuries, poultry has remained atop the list of cuisines throughout the world, which along with pork makes up over 60% of the human diet.  From Southern Fried Chicken to Tikka Masala to Yakitori, we are in love with the domesticated bird.  This version is a Vietnamese favorite which blends earthy tones from Chinese 5 spice (fennel seed, saigon cinnamon, star anise, clove, szechuan peppercorn) with a sweet and sour tamarind sauce with a crispy Rock Cornish game hen (a cross between the White Rock and Cornish Game chickens).  

Ga Ro Ti- Five-Spice Rock Cornish Game Hen with Tamarind Sauce

2 Rock Cornish Game Hens

1 tbsp salt

1 tbsp Chinese five spice-*
4 tbsp canola oil

Tamarind Sauce

2 tsp tamarind concentrate-*

4 tbsp fish sauce-*

1 ¼ cups water

4 tbsp palm sugar-*

5 cloves garlic

2 Thai chilis-*

accompaniments- rice, coriander, perilla

*- ingredients can be found at your local Asian Market

In a small bowl, mix the 5 spice and salt then dry off the hens.  Place them on a baking rack to air out for a moment.  Using a pair of scissors, cut the spine out and flatten the birds skin side up.  Then rub them thoroughly with the salt and 5 spice blend.  

The process of cutting them open is called spatchcocking or butterfly, and it will allow the birds to get a crisp skin and cook evenly and quickly.

In a heavy skillet, heat up the canola oil and add the birds skin side down.  Gently place them into the pan and avoid splashing the hot grease.

When the skin becomes golden brown, carefully flip them over and cook through on the underside.  Clear juices will begin to run from the hen as it is thoroughly cooked.  

While we cook the hen, put a small pot on the stove, add the fish sauce and tamarind paste and mix to dissolve.  Add the sugar and gently warm and stir until fully incorporated.  

Once the fish sauce is blended with the sugar and tamarind, add the garlic and chili; turn off the heat and let it rest.

When the birds are done, remove from the pan and serve with a bowl of rice and a side of tamarind sauce.  The traditional garnishes are perilla, a purple/green mint, and vietnamese coriander which has a lemony mint flavor.  Both herbs are abundantly used in Vietnam and add a beautiful aroma and freshness.   

Smoked Veal Salad

Fireworks, parades, celebrations?  Yeah, that's how New Year's Day is spent in America but is this commonplace elsewhere?

In many parts of Asia, the celebration of the New Year  begins a month or so after January 1st.  The first day (until the third day) of the first month of the Lunar Calendar (late January or early February), the Vietnamese people celebrate the holiday known as Tet Nguyen Dan (meaning Feast of the First Morning) or simply Tet.  Traditionally, parades, fireworks, games and gifts of money are part of the celebration otherwise known as- an Tet- meaning to eat Tet!  As with most cultures, food begins to take center stage during holiday settings.  During Tet, duck is considered to be unlucky and shrimp walk backwards, thus making you move backwards (as opposed to progressing through life); other seasonal dishes become a part of the Feast. Visit your local Vietnamese community to enjoy the celebration of Tet or find the nearest Asian Market and expand your pantry.

Dried candied fruits, pickled vegetables and sticky rice filled with meat or mung bean are among the various dishes offered.  However, our focus will be on a seldom seen dish involving smoked veal and wonderful fresh herbs.  This specialty becomes prominent during Tet, however, we enjoy it any time of year.

In Vietnam, a whole calf is roasted in an open flame pit, but http://www.tanbinhbethui.com/ supplies the roasted veal to many Asian markets throughout the US.  The method is slightly different but the results are wonderful.  The meat is already sliced and beautifully packaged, which makes this a wonderful year-round treat.

Be Thui-Smoked Veal Salad

1lb. Vietnamese Style Roasted/Smoked Veal Sliced-*

2 each red or yellow onion

¼ cup toasted sesame seeds

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

1 bunch perilla-*

1 bunch Vietnamese coriander-*

roasted peanuts

roasted rice powder-*

Ginger Nuoc Mam

½ cup fish sauce-*

¼ cup water

2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 

¼ cup palm sugar (or to taste)-*

1 or 2 limes juiced

3 cloves garlic minced

2 Thai chilis thinly sliced-*

2 tbsp ginger minced

*- ingredients can be found at your local Asian Market

Nuoc mam, a staple of Vietnamese cuisine, adds sweet, salty, spicy and acidic flavors to any dish, and this version includes freshly chopped ginger.  Thai palm sugar is my choice but any type of sugar will work, and we use unseasoned rice wine vinegar.  Measurements are provided but have fun with this and adjust according to your tastes.  You might want less sugar or more spice, so play with it and change it according to your palate.

Break up the sugar, and add it to the liquids while bringing to a slow simmer.  This will allow the sugar to melt nicely and blend the flavors together.  While working the sauce, finely chop the garlic, ginger and thinly slice the chilis.  After a few minutes, the sugar should melt properly, and the chilis, ginger and garlic are added. Turn off the heat and let is rest, then thinly slice the red onion and toss it in rice wine vinegar. 

As the onions are marinating, tear the herbs from the thick stems and set aside.  Now we are ready to plate the salad.  Layer the onions on the bottom with the sliced veal on top, and sprinkle a teaspoon or so of roasted rice powder along with the sesame seeds over the top of the salad.  Garnish heavily with the torn herbs, and serve the nuoc mam on the side.  The smokiness of the veal pairs beautifully with the freshness of the ingredients.